Morocco – the extras

I never did get round to cataloging the last two days of riding in Morocco. Not that I was doing much riding anyway. So here’s a pictorial story with a few words. I’d stick to the pictures if I were you. Day 3 started with a few kilometers descent on a surface best described as dusty ball bearings. Each corner was a mountain switchback which led to some fairly interesting “ohhhhshit” moments. I buggered my shoulder early on and was soon far behind and whinging.

I’ve no idea what Martyn is doing with that bike in the shot above but he’s clearly enjoying himself. I ended up back in the broom wagon which was a little scarier that riding. You really need a vehicle here that has a short wheelbase and a tight turning circle. It’s disconcerting looking over the edge to a thousand feet of vertical bugger all but after a while you sort of get used to it. If you close your eyes and take strong drugs.


I met the fellas for lunch and deciding riding was going to be more fun/less fatal than the landy, we set off on about 10k of dusty, loose fireroad that ended up being way more fun than it should have been. At this point I gave up again and so did a few of the others being faced with a huge climb. The road – and I’m using the word advisedly here – to our third night stop at a burbur lodge was fairly terrifying and I was glad of various but extensive medicinal products to dull the pain later that evening.

The last day was going to push the difficulty a bit and it started with a rocky, off camber singletrack strewn with huge boulders. Pretty technical all the way down to the village but WAY WAY safer than taking the landy back down that track of the night before. Some super steps near the trail end put paid to my riding for the weekend tho. A little too much vigour and a little too little shoulder recovery rended the arm pretty useless.

After another landy uplift, three from five (Nig had succumbed to some kind of major intestinal failure) set off on a huge traverse across the valley where vehicles cannot go. And sometimes bikes too as Jason tells of an incident when he flung himself off the trail and over a handy cliff. Somehow he only fell about ten feet and damaged himself not at all. If that had been me, they’d have been scraping me off the valley floor with a spatula.


Apparently it was a fantastic ride and one both Nigel and I are looking forward to doing next year when we go back. And we have to go back because it is a wonderful place to ride your bike and equally fantastic in terms of the people, culture and stunning scenery.

The trousers of truth

With the weather turning to the icy side of inclement and an early spring losing the heated battle with a late wintry cold front, it was time to out the Trousers Of Truth.

I’m becoming increasingly fascinated by trousers and their associated paraphernalia. Firstly a wardrobe miscalculation left me pantless, then some oik invaded my trouser storage space. But this is different, these leg warming garments have always been on the breathe in side of snug and with a 2007 history of serial non riding, I expected waistband closure issues. You cannot pass the Truthful Trousers off with water retention issues or big bones “ they are the arbiter of middle aged spread.

Last year, refusing to succumb to the bald fact that riding in the cold and pissing rain has a fun rating similar to ramming pencils up your nose, these troons became the Strides Of Smiles as my pre-season girth disappeared under seventy tough commuting miles a week. That is almost exactly the number I’ve ridden in total since Christmas so no one was more surprised than I when button closure was achieved without having to squeeze every last breath from my body.

Okay there was a bit of a seasonal overhang but nothing that a baggy thermal layer and the yellow jacket of stoutness couldn’t conceal. And it was a good choice because riding home tonight mirrored the sting in the tail of last year. First there was the sleety rain trying to be snow, aided and abetted by a 20mph headwind and once you’ve thrown a couple of frozen roadies into the mix, it was as close to proper riding as you can get on the roads.

The roadies had chosen fashion over form with their silly lycra and transparent sponsor waterproofs rendered laughable in the face of my totally waterproofed form. I stalked them up the Mall, taking a tow and waiting for my lungs to catch up with my ego. They belatedly did half way up the drag through Hyde park and I beasted them both in a leg pumping, bar wrenching pass chowing down on wet snow and planting a cold nose on the stem. This aerodynamic pose of the athletic idiot saw me pile on the power up to Marylebone though thickening snow and apparently blinded drivers.

One less than diffident tap on a wing mirror and an endorphined fuck off you wanker if you think you’re having THAT lane propelled me into the warmth of the station where tubey commuters were inadvertently scattered. They looked on my dripping and steaming form as late Victorians would have cautiously viewed the elephant man.

But I didn’t care because they’ll never get it and I’ll never get tired of it. Summer riding is ace but only because of days like this. I could still be an angry young man if I wasn’t so old and bollixed.

Death by a thousand (power) cuts

After spending most of Thursday evening abandoned and nasally impaired, the 2mm of late winter snow predictably ground the railway to a further halt this morning. As usual it was everybody’s responsibility but nobody’s fault with Chiltern blaming London Underground and London Underground going with the like we give a flying fuck option.

Progress to Amersham was stately but pleasantly unexciting. From there on, nothing much happened for the next hour, other than the secret enjoyment of pulling faces at the platform based lemmings who shivered in their non train-ness. Not going anywhere is on the dull side of tedious, but slightly enlivened by chuckling at the less fortunate abandoned on a chilly, snowblown platform.

Yet in another inspired decision, the caring railway company decided the best course of action would be open the doors and cram a few more desperate people in. The reasons are occluded although strong evidence to support an alternative approach were readily provided by the full carriages with people already standing, and a groundswell of grumpiness that was ready to explode at any point.

This explosion came during the third halt, this time in the tunnel within spitting distance of Marylebone. And people were spittingly angry as an ominous silence from the PA system was drowned out by a hundred tired, angry and now “ frankly “ sweaty passengers wondering what the fuck was going on. Trains passed us imperiously on either side, while our stationary non progress was marked only by increasing physical and mental temperatures.

We finally arrived at 9:45. The journey had taken a smidge under two hours. My total commute this morning was three hours and ten minutes to travel 54 miles of which eight of them were done on my bike. This compares favourably to the last Monday morning of chaos but this in now way even raised the slightest of wry smiles on my chill chapped face. I just want to find someone to blame/shout at/dismember with the utensil of hurt – anyone in the CR Butlins uniform will do.

The driver did finally honour us with his dulcet tones imploring passengers to Please take all belongings with you. We have had a recent spate of the will to live being left on the train. You can collect these from the lost property office or by moving to another country.

I’m sat on the returning train as I write this and we’re making slow progress again “ this time apparently due to the price of cabbages.

Maybe I can get a bus. Or a helicopter. Are they expensive?

Bike Page Update

It’s been weeks since this page was updated and with the revolving door bike purchasing scheme in operation at Leigh central, this seemed an opportune time to update it.

I was considering changing the site skin as well but there was some quite dirty CSS jiggery pokery to make this one work and I’ve absolutely no idea what I changed. Basically random size and pixel values inserted anywhere that looked promising. On second thoughts I’d have to be seriously starved of entertainment to even consider searching for a new one.

Talking of entertainment, I had a hundred quids worth of non-entertainment yesterday, fifty of which was spent watching the mighty Sheffield United crushed by Chequebook Chelsea. Not that I’m bitter in any way about it. Then a few rounds of drinks were required to deal with the embarrassment of being stuffed by the Welsh in the Rugby. I left the boys around 7pm as they were considering hunting down a curry as the way I was feeling, death by spicy popodom was a serious possibility.

Instead I meandered, drunk, through the vast confusion of the tube system before setting fire to my face by stupidly biting into a station pasty that had been heated in a jet engine.

I can’t decide whether to attempt to fix the brakes on my bike for about the tenth time or rush headlong into some pointless DIY that’ll end in a desperate call to a plummer.

The world is my lobster today.

Planes, stains and shortage of mobiles

Last night Chiltern Railways put in a truly stunning performance with the emphasis on ˜stunned’. The 7:15 service mooted to arrive at 8pm actually arrived an hour and a half later at 9:30. Well to be fair, the 7:15 never actually left London, with passengers from this and a previously cancelled train shoehorned onto a live one which finally wheezed out of the station at 7:30

I couldn’t believe transporting this sea of frustrated humanity was within its operating parameters “ there were bodies crammed into every available crevice including the bog and luggage racks. So it came as a nasty surprise when somehow another 50 squeezed on at Harrow.

I was lucky enough to have my own seat and an hour long nasal performance from someones’ sticky armpit located fetchingly about an inch from my face. It offered up a complex mixture of smells rarely sequenced together and for good reason. The almost overpowering BO was tainted by fresh sweat and a hint of cheese left in the sun too long. The physical manifestation of this aural disaster was a dirty, gray fungal like growth staining his white shirt. It was essentially mobile biological warfare delivered by a rejected M&S garment. A year ago I’d manage to immobilise at least two people with a similar tactic so I guess this was payback time.

The reason for our progress best compared to a three legged sloth with a head wound was Chiltern Railways bete noir “ the ubiquitous power failure. This is the third time in a month the entire network has gone dark when someone plugs in a kettle.

But our driver was surprisingly jolly. He would cheerfully announce The next stop is Chorleywood but we don’t expect to get there for at least an hour so no rush for the doors. He also reminded us there was a toilet on board but dashed our hopes that the red cross would be coming through the train with food parcels.

At Rickmansworth our crawl became a shuddering halt and we stopped dead. A physical state all the trapped passengers were wishing on the kettle pluggerinner. And in an astonishing example of hope over intelligence yet more people stuffed themselves into our sardine can. This had the unfortunate consequence of moving the armpit of hell a couple of inches closer to my wrinkling nose. I was already fairly pissed off but plunged further into the kind of abject depression that only an announcement there are four sectors of track filled with trains all stopped on a red signal ahead of us. We will be here for quite a while can bring on.

To divert attention from my aural system shorting out and the nasal passages melting under the continued whiffy onslaught, I began to stealthily read the book of a fellow Chiltern Railways’ prisoner marooned on the seat next to me.

It was a romp of a novel where the muscular Christophe was vigorously attempting to deflower the virginal Melanie in the hay loft. Never heard it called that before – anyway my commuting pal was a bit of a slow reader but that was just fine as we seemed to have all night.

Typical of the evening, just at the exciting climax when a horse stomped into the stable and shot Christophe with an elephant gun declaring you fiend, you have had sex with my favourite set of stairs, she got up and left. Well the book was in French and I was doing my best.

At this time we emerged from a mobile blackout area and carriage lit up with a hundred beeping phones indicating voicemails from enraged spouses. One guy was desperately trying to convince his wife that he wasn’t in the pub but she wasn’t having it. I grabbed his phone and shouted no he really is on the train but he didn’t want to call you because you’re such an untrusting stuck up bitch. Marriage counselling needs no training really, some people just take to it naturally.

The driver came back on and suggested that if you hadn’t frozen to death or disembowelled yourself with a small spoon to alleviate the boredom, the next station might be Amersham. Here the entire platform was devoid of life so I assumed any remaining passengers had given up and taken to shanks pony. Except for two drunks who mistook our train for a bar and spent the next 20 minutes shouting at each other. Their conversation could be summarised as embarrassing places we’ve been sick in

By the time the train arrived at my station, I had given up the idea of applying for compensation unless it offered 30 minutes alone with the chief engineer. And I was allowed to take in the spoon of hurt.

Arm the Pitt!

Great news in the Leigh household today and – if I may be so bold – for the wider world as well. Only a month after the stupid accident, I have successfully washed under my armpit. This simple matter of personal hygiene was a right old faff due to an inability to reach for the sky with the left arm. This meant rooting around in the hairy undergrowth – David Bellamy style – and attempting difficult inverted shower moves to rinse away the soap.

But now, other than a strangled ‘aaargghhh’, the armpit of doom has nowhere to hide. It was all a bit crusty in there but smelt good so I fed it to the kids just to be on the safe side. Although it would definitely have troubled a Geiger counter.

Okay I made some of that up. But not much. Still it makes a nice change to know why people have been avoiding me.

With the current rate of improvement, my shoulder may recover in time for me to sign the last will and testament. People I used to quite like insist on crowing, at great length, on how dry the trails are and the early return of dusty singletrack. In the olden days, I could have sent out my henchmen and had them killed. Society today dictates instead they receive an email with extreme shortness of shrift and a horses head in the post.

Still there’s always someone worse off that you. And from my friend Mike comes the ‘worlds leading meat processing manufacturer‘ to prove it. Jarvis Products is to pigs and cows what Bernard Matthews is to turkeys although with less bird flu. Browse the site to find such horrors as the “BS-1 Brain Sucker” and “LKE-1 Lung gun“. Other highlights include the “bung dropper” and a medieval looking device to make Lobster spaghetti.

I’d love to be a salesman for this company “Yes Bob, the new BS-1 whips out the brains and turns it into Pate at the rate of a hundred a minute. Combined with this months offer of 50{45ac9c3234d371044e23e276755ef3a4dde8f1068375defba7d385ca3cd4deb2} off the bung dropper, you’re looking at some high speed visceral action here“.

No wonder cows look so miserable.

Jon Gets Mad

I’m happy to plead guilty to raging against the misogyny of the average
car driver and his get off the road, you don’t pay any bloody road
tax nonsensical tirade. Normally a single digit response or the
removal of a wing mirror asserts my point of view but Jon (Samuri) has
put together a splendid rant against the motoring classes.

OOoh, I’ve finally decided to write a proper post about cars vs
cyclists. There’s so much anti-cyclist shite being gandered about
by the media and on the internet that I thought I’d do a bit of
research. To wit: your average anti-cyclist car driver (which in my
experience, is pretty much all of them [there you go, I stereotype
drivers, I’m as bad as them]), have a severe problem with
cyclists using *their* roads, seeing them as unsuccesful, dangerous,
aggressive law-breakers who just slow everyone down.

Cyclists should pay road tax (whatever the fuck that is), insurance, pass a test, stopjumping red lights and get off the fucking pavement. I’m not sure
which bothers me most to be honest, the quite sad fact that we’re
surrounded by so many idiots who rant away without ever bothering to
think about what they’re saying, or the fact that cyclists are
all grouped together, one cyclists rides like a cock, ergo they all
must be cocks.

I’m going to try to address each point in succession. This
argument is clearly as pointless as trying to collect wasps with a
spoon but it’ll make me feel a bit better

Read Jon’s arguments here and then maybe send him a drink or some calming music 🙂

The invisible man

Random's new bike

Our kids have already lost that sheen of innocence and gullibility that so characterised their tender years. Back in the good old days, it was simple to convince – especially Random – that her belly button was in fact a third ear for use when soapy hair washing reduced the biologically proven aurals to hissing sea sounds.

But still I try. And lately, pouncing on the cloak of invisibility, a number of theories have espoused the “underbed farting monster”, “the drinking all of dads beer monster” and “the nasty wraith who jumps on the scales and adds twenty pounds to my virtually fat free body“.

It’s a struggle but I feel that messing with your kids heads is a parental responsibility, so it’s kind of incumbent on me to plant expensive therapy seeds now. It’s may be the only chance I get.

Talking of pointless niches, here is another one – I’ve read a million mountain bike reviews with the faintly pretentious baffling on about crucial angles, trail geometry and the ability of six welded pipes to “rail singletrack” or “increase your willy size by at least 50{45ac9c3234d371044e23e276755ef3a4dde8f1068375defba7d385ca3cd4deb2}“. Possibly, I’ve been mixing magazines here but that’s hardly the point at issue. And here is what the issue is; while the mags talk of bottom bracket clearance and spurious head angles, a special interest group wants to know how well does the bloody thing ride one handed.

Let me put the bloody saddle up

You can keep your ability to carve narrow singletrack or drop distances normally assocaiated with getting a passport and instead focus on what is important. And if they won’t I will – my new hardtail has wheeled more miles with me acting as the tea pot pilot than it has armed with both hands. And I’m not afraid to say that it’s the “best one handed bike you will ever ride”. I even managed to chuck it down some steps one handed much to the disgust of my wife. She felt this was well outside the parameters of “a gentle family ride”

Three on the back one in the boot

And she is probably right. We Christened Random’s new 20 incher (oh plllleeease, she’s only six, button it!) which is a little too big for her but she rides round the problem in a way that makes me think the milkman may have been involved in her conception. A similar issue in Morocco left me puffing the puff of the terminally useless and demanding that someone provides me with a working bike RIGHT NOW.

The best one handed bike I ever rode :)

I couldn’t help noticing that our family has the nicest bikes, the best riding kit, the highest scores on the little known bike maintenance anal scale and almost perfectly colour coordinated. I put this down to my obsession that has – through stealth campaigns – upped the ante with clothing, bikes and accessories for the rest of the family.

PoshBikes(tm) hits the Sustrans

Let me tell you, we KICKED ASS on the sustrans today. I’ve almost trained the kids to spit on crappy Halfords bikes and shell suits. For all my raving liberalism, there is a level of bike snobbery that can never be tamed.

Bring me a mountain.

There is always a double knot of anxiety and anticipation when packing riding rucksacks and fettling pointlessly, when facing the prospect of riding somewhere a little edgy. This is a useful simile because Morocco is essentially an ancient, extinct volcano circumcised by donkey tracks and watered by mountain snow melt. Global warning here doesn’t mean the loss of a few ski-ing slopes – no with bugger all annual rainfall, the entire south of the country is a couple of warm winters away from sliding back into the desert.

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So a Landrover supported trip into the mountains shuttles us high into the foothills on increasingly crumbling roads clinging to ever steepening slopes. And where the Landy cannot go, the semi-nomadic villages and their animals can, creating vast swathes of lonely singletrack hugging the side of the mountains in a series of never ending rocky switchbacks. It is is – by degrees – achingly beautiful, stunningly unspoilt and bloody terrifying.

The villages are cut into the hillside, camouflaged by the sandstone – itself cleaved from anywhere close enough to hand carry it. They appear at first crude and unfinished but that’s just through the prism of the Western eye. Each building blends perfectly with its’ surroundings, ensues form for function and its’ inhabitants lack nothing in terms of fierce pride in their culture easily mixed with genuine hospitality.

Loading the Landy is always a faff and we’re about an hour late striking out beyond the lunacy of the city. But it’s only ninety minutes into the mountains and soon we’re climbing reasonable gradients at unreasonable altitudes, low lying lungs painfully adjusting to the thinner air.

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One of the joys of riding a bike off road is you get to learn the extremes of personality unshielded by any veneer of social convention. I know how well each of my friends climb steep slopes, how able and brave they are going the other way, where they are fast and smooth or slow and nervous. How they react when it’s all wet, cold and shit and their bike is ‘just fucking useless‘ and the unashamed joy of when they’re on it and nothing else can ever get close. This is stuff you understand before anyone volunteers a vocation or springs a surprising family in a bleak car park.

Today we were all a bit average. Desperately happy to be out riding our bikes, but a bit clumsy and lacking in any sort of flow. I like to think of this as my ground state. The first downhill confirmed what I really already knew in that my trusty bike was a barely ridable pogo stick and my shoulder was just a smidgen from being totally fucked.

The sight of my friends snaking away in ever increasing distances was one that became irritatingly familiar over the next three days. A combination of being properly averse to falling on the shoulder and said limb not being of any real use other than for resting lightly on the bar. And aching.

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Fiddling around with shock pressures and quaffing ibuprofen kept me going most of the day though and what a great day it was. Officially the warm up, it still threw up nasty little climbs, endless off camber singletrack and fast blasts down dusty fireroads. The landy was always somewhere close, carrying all our stuff, lunch and our rather splendid Berber driver going by the name of Najiv.

30 years old, brilliantly competent in the drivers seat, making local salads and shooing away the occasional seller of tat. His English was better than my long forgotten French (Morocco has been independent of the French since around 1954 but along with infinate Arab dialects, it’s still the common language) and through a bit of both he explained he was away from his wife and kids for six months at a time to earn a living.

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Jason had the first proper stack, dumping his front wheel in a rocky gorge and pirouetting over the bars at a velocity marked “that’s going to fucking hurt“. But he emerged unscathed leaving me cursing silently on the unfairness of life. Clearly I am just Mr. Mong and I’d better get used to it. My shoulder really had had enough by this time but my ego hadn’t so I grimaced on for the remainder of the day until two late punctures provided the excuse I was looking for to quit.

Somehow a packet of 20 Malboro had been planted on my temple like form so it seemed a shame not to smoke a couple in the warn sunshine leaning on the handy landrover. I’m a cheap date when it comes to finding some inner peace and mountains, bikes and a general lack of responsibility does it every time.

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We shuttled 20 clicks up to a Mountain lodge run by a sour faced French dame whose father had clearly been Vichy. She didn’t like us much and dispatched us to a remote bunkhouse warmed only by steaming ride kit and sufficient methane to ratchet up global warming. But there was more beer, more bollocks and a partial lunar eclipse perfectly framed by a total lack of light pollution.

And since we were on the top of the mountain, tomorrow was all downhill apparently.

I’m on fire!

Not sadly a physical metaphor for some flawless athletic performance or even the predictable outcome of finessing Creme Caramel with a blowtorch. No, I’m on fire on the inside according to the giver of pain, who has the thankless job of jump starting my creaking carcass through the power of chiropractics and money.

And while there are hundreds more photos and sufficient tall stories to give a giraffe vertigo only a couple of beers away, I know how much joy you take from my whining hypochondria so sit back, relax and spend some quality time with the idiots guide to anatomy.

The tingling in my fingers escalates to an elbow biting howl as pain marches up my arm and garrisons itself in the shoulder muscle. Apparently this is due to a distorted trapezium which sounds like hated geometry lessons from my youth. All that “how many sides has a pentagram ?” and “What’s the difference between a parallelogram and a rhombus?” nonsense – if only I knew how totally bloody pointless it all was, I could have saved myself much angst and frustration with a simple “sorry sir, I don’t really give a toss”

Anyway, this triangular muscle is the size of Belgium due to a level of inflammation last seen in the Great Fire of London. To paraphrase that oh-so-jolly song “the shoulder bone is connected to the elbow bone and the elbow bone is connected to the penis if you’ve been born unlucky,etc” hence hurty limbs and throbbing shoulder. Obviously I’ve cut out some of the complex medical stuff there.

The upshot other than medical bills that put me in mind of US Medicare is no riding of bikes for two weeks, much riding of the horrible tube and general one handed uselessness if asked to perform any difficult act such as painting. On the upside the newly prescribed Co-codamal donkey stunners are pretty damn powerful. So powerful in fact, they come with a stern warning that the recipient had better not operate machinery or drink alcohol otherwise the world may explode or some such catastrophe. I’m assuming that attempting both simultaneously would turn that into dangerous machinery.

I’m treating that caveat in the same way Italian drivers regard stop signs. Interesting, possibly informative but only to be obeyed on a case by case basis. Still to stay on the safe side, I’ll stay away from the heavy machinery for a few days.

And on that happy note, it seems the sun has crested the yard arm in a fridge opening manner.